Lamayuru or Bust! Part 1
- jonathanmillerhome
- Feb 3
- 35 min read
Updated: Feb 15
A 1985 trek across Ladakh in the Himalayas
Introduction
40 years ago, my friends Simon, Chris, Jon and I decided to have one final adventure before leaving University.
It all started quite simply with a pin in the map and things evolved from there. Where would be an exciting place to go in our last long university holiday? How about the Himalayas? If I am really honest, when we first started to think about the project, I was not even that clear where the Himalayas were; I had just seen pictures of Mount Everest and thought, wow!
Our initial research, looking at Nepal and other likely places to go, revealed a problem: The summer months are monsoon season for the Himalayas. Since we wanted to make use of our final summer holiday to travel, it looked as though the Himalayas was out as a destination.
However, a little more research revealed that the western end of the Himalayas sits under a rain shadow from the rest and, as a result, is a kind of mountain desert.
A curious twist of timing and practicalities therefore, led us to focus in on a place called Ladakh, in Jammu and Kashmir, at the northern end of India. All of this took place before the invention of the internet, so our research involved going to libraries and looking things up in books.
Research quickly showed us that Ladakh was a beautiful place. While much of it was quite barren, as can be seen below, there also existed areas of great beauty and greenery thanks to exceptional irrigation schemes built by the locals.
The region we focused in on sits between India, Pakistan and China. You can see Jammu and Kashmir in the photograph below of one of the tourist maps that we bought for the trip.
Another photo of one of the more detailed maps gives an overview of where we went. We flew to Delhi and then travelled north by train to Simla, the summer capital where the British Raj used to travel during the monsoon season. From here we travelled through Manali, Keylong, Padam, Lamayuru (near Kargil) and along the road between Srinagar and Leh.
Our research had told us that above 1200 feet we would experience altitude sickness. This meant two things, we had to be fit, and we had to plan our route so that we could acclimatise for a few days once we reached that height. For me, getting fit included regular walks round the block with a rucksack full of a mixture of bricks and books!
We needed to carry enough food for the three weeks which was the main part of our trek, we needed tents, cooking equipment, sleeping bags, clothing etc. as well. Our journey through valleys and over mountain passes is inaccessible by road once we have started. There is a road in at the midpoint, Padam, but this is a day’s drive to civilisation. So, once we have started the trek we are fully committed! Simon took charge of the food which needed to be dried food so that it would last the journey.
Simon can be seen below with the food all packed and laid out on the table along with our pressure cooker (which was needed to boil water at altitude.)
I bought myself a Pentax single lens reflex camera with a separate zoom and wide-angle lens. I remember being so proud of this highly professional piece of equipment. I practiced with it and took great pleasure in taking photos. To take care of it, I managed to by a padded bag which fitted on my belt with separate pouches for the camera and each of the lenses. In those days of course cameras were analogue, so I needed to buy lots of film. I decided to use 35mm film which I would later be able to turn into slides for use with a projector.
I wrote a diary during our trip. What follows is the typed up version of the diary as it was written 40 years ago, along with the numerous photos that I took.
Packing up
Friday, 12th July Last day in England. What a busy day! Left my aunt Julia’s then spent the day collecting people and taking them to friend Martin for our UK stopover. Still packing late into the night, but all is now done. The food is 25lbs each person and the sacks are about 44lbs (without food.) The food weight will go on the donkey. So, other than initial panics it all looks practical (just!) Hope we don’t get fined for excess weight on the plane.
Taking off
Saturday, 13th July We’re off! Up early (5.30am) after what seemed like no sleep at all. Martin took us to the airport. Each of us has a rucksack (44lbs) and a bag of food (25lbs.) The weight limit is 44lbs for the plane with £15 a Kg extra! We had a nerve racking wait for an hour checking in for the Thai flight, each with our ‘hand luggage’ slung over our shoulders to disguise the weight. More and more people ahead of us were charged £100, £150 etc. for extra weight, gulp! However, we were lucky and got through. At last, we could relax a bit.
The flight was great. Constant free booze, taped music, good food, films etc. Took off 10:30 am and arrived 11:15 pm (Delhi time, which is 4.5 hours ahead of England.) Once off the plane, the atmosphere hit us hard, very humid, warm (not too hot,) quite striking. Staying in the Mehra’s air-conditioned house is fantastic. Mr Mehra, who is a John Lewis work contact of my father’s, is very friendly. The house seems very British. Bed at 2:00am.
On Simon’s T-shirt it says “Lamayuru or Bust” as Lamayuru was the end point of our trek on foot across Ladakh!
Delhi
Sunday 14th July Up at 09:30 AM to be greeted by 3 servants, standing waiting expectantly. Around Mehra’s house is more typically English than Indian in terms of its contents. His large Hi-Fi and video disc point to his status. Inside the air conditioning keeps the rooms cool, each with their large fans hanging from the ceiling.
Outside is warm, though not unbearable. It’s the humidity that is noticeable, as soon as you leave the house you notice a stickiness on your hands, a heavy atmosphere and a mouldy smell like a steam filled shower.
After breakfast we set off with our driver Kani to change money and to explore Delhi. The traffic is incredible, total chaos! There are motorbikes, pedal and powered rickshaws, and cars. There is one type of car only, a bit like an armour-plated Morris Minor!
We saw all the tourist sites, Rajiv Gandhi’s house, the Houses of Parliament, the Red Fort, and an enormous sundial which was fascinating. Sadly, being Sunday, all the markets were closed. We clearly saw the smarter side of Delhi, the ‘comfortable angle’, but still it was a great experience.
We watched various video discs and then, after a very spicy supper, we set off for the train. Kani drove us. There was some confusion about whether it was New or Old Delhi, but we arrived in the end.
The train was ready booked. Rs 330 each (£20), first class with air conditioning; very plush!
Off to Simla
We stuck out like a sore thumb in Delhi. All the Indian kids grinned and said ‘Hello’. In most places we were followed by people trying to sell us knick-knacks, pipes, jewellery etc. There were also snake charmers with snakes in baskets. When they see a tourist, they open their bags and start piping. Simon bought a pipe of rosewood after much haggling. They started at Rs 75, and Simon finally paid Rs20. We also haggled for an ivory necklace, the price dropped a lot from the initial Rs80, but we still didn’t buy it!
Kalka
Monday, 15th July
We were woken suddenly by the porters standing at the cabin doorway with their legendary coloured uniforms. “Kalka, Kalka.” It is 06:00 am, we are at Kalka already. We leave the train, continually pestered by the porters. We have passed through the Punjab without problem.
From Kalka we change to a narrow-gauge train for the 6-hour ride to Simla. Having found a carriage, a man comes up and offers us breakfast. We are all starving, so we accept. Ten minutes later our ‘waiter’ is back with a tray of omelettes, cornflakes, bread, tea and coffee. One could not help but feel like the English Raj, sitting on a train pouring tea with an Indian servant at hand! But still, this high living will not last forever so we might just as well enjoy it while we can. The breakfast was Rs45 total (about 80p each.)
At Kalka there are already a few hills. The train has five carriages and quite a small diesel engine. In our carriage there is one Indian civilian and two soldiers, including an Officer.
Right on time at 07:10 am the train pulls away. We are all excited! In no time at all the train begins to climb, winding back and forth with hairpins like a mountain road. The hills start quite abruptly, green with tall thin pine trees and many brambles and foliage. The train climbs effortlessly at a steady 20 mph running on its track which is barely 2½ feet wide. This narrow gauge allows for the tight bends of at most 50 metres radius. The gradient is impressive too, though hard to estimate. (Excuse me, I must dash, nature calls!) I would say a conservative estimate of one metre in fifty, often more. The engineering is impeccable. The track was British made in 1903 and has been maintained to a perfectionist’s standards.
The journey is fascinating, and this keeps us going, despite our lack of sleep. As the hills rise, we see terraces and many people along the line. At stations the train slows, the driver throws out a quoit and people step off while the train ambles on. (The quoit/ring was apparently to show that the train arrived and to ensure that only one train is in the section of track.)
After an hour the civilian and officer leave, and our soldier loosens up. We chat to him about the army, the people, prices and religion. He is fascinated by our (Sony) Walkmans and loves the music, especially Talking Heads. He asks for Michael Jackson, but we have none. He says he earns Rs 1600 a month (£100) whereas a British soldier earns about £1000. Judging the value of money is hard. 50paise can buy a fried lump of potato, though they double the price for us to RS 1!
Two hours later we are tiring and begin to sleep. It is misty outside and cool enough for a sweatshirt. Weatherwise, we could be in the Lake District. Little else happens until our arrival in Simla, except for one station where a new military commander received a bagpipe and drum welcome.
Simla
We reached Simla at 2:00 pm. Suddenly as the train pulls in a swarm of porters flood towards us, buzzing around like pestering flies Our sacks are now 75lbs and the climb is steep and long onto the ridge where the Mall runs. At Rs 2 (12p) you would think we would have hired a porter, but we are determined to carry our own sacks. The Indians have incredible loads, sacks and boxes lashed onto their backs; the latter being protected by a sacking pad.
At last, totally exhausted, we found the YMCA. The rooms are clean and the Rs 35 for a double (£1 a head) is very good value. Thank you to the guidebook for pointing us to this place.
We explored Simla, the Raj’s summer capital, and were surprised by the amount of English goods here. Cadburys chocolate, corn flakes, Coco Cola, Kodak film, etc. can all be found here. The prices are similar to English ones, so not really cheap (clearly, we are seeing the summer prices.) The weather is misty and often quite wet, with spells of heavy rain.
Later, after a three-hour snooze, we had supper in an Indian restaurant: “Fascinations” above Balaji’s. The food is spicy and moderately priced with large quantities, almost identical to a typical Indian restaurant in England. The meal was Rs 196 all in (£3 each.)
Our conversation flips from stomach problems to good food and back, with Chris’ contributions on sex added in from time to time! We all now have upset stomachs. I think basically the change in food (now all spicy) and the different atmosphere are likely to be the cause rather than bad food or water but who knows.
So far, our group seems to get on very well. The mood is relaxed and jovial with much piss-taking. Only Jon seems slightly reserved, but I am sure he will soon open up; Jon took up the expedition place at the last minute after another friend became ill. Now I must get some sleep, it is 1:00 am and I am exhausted!
Tuesday, 16th July
Up at 09:30am and straight to the Tourist Office to book a bus to Manali. Rs90 for a Deluxe bus. (Extravagant, but it takes 12 hours to cover the 250 km, so it is worth it!) An ordinary bus would have been Rs 40.
Explored Simla, sometimes in the rain, sometimes not; but generally wet! Took many photos. There are two distinct parts of Simla: The Mall, where people look affluent (more so than in Delhi) and the shanty slums below the mall ridge where there is severe poverty. The contrast between rich and poor is both stark and shocking.
We toured around, eating bananas and boiled eggs. We found the bus stand and made a rapid exit up to the tourist lift (Rs 1) to avoid the rain. We found a good coffee bar and then hunted for food and Kerosene. We found plenty of fruit and vegetables in the “Subsi Mandi” (the general market.) Gradually we are getting used to the prices, although the sellers still raise them when we approach.
Simon, Chris and I each bought cotton ‘smocks’ for Rs 40 (£2.50), very good value. This is our attempt to go ethnic!
I hope to have some good photos of the rickety houses below The Mall, although light was rather poor.
By the evening, after a good meal of rice, potato, cucumber (we thought it was courgette!) carrots and tea, my stomach problems are gone. Only Simon still has some problems.
We boiled up some water for tomorrow and wrote lots of post cards. Bed 10:45 pm.
Note In Simla, everywhere there are porters carrying huge loads. We saw one weigh his pack on a balance, it was 100 Kg, quite incredible!
Soldiers and the Dam
Wednesday, 17 July
Well, quite some day! Had breakfast at 06:30 am, brought to us by Michael, the YMCA manservant. Staggered down to the bus carrying all our kit on our backs.
The Deluxe bus left at 08:00 am. We left our bags on the roof and settled down for the 11-hour trip. The bus was fairly empty, and we were able to move around.
Whilst long and hot, the journey was fantastic. The weather was clear, and we could see easily. The views were spectacular. We watched the terrain gradually change from open terraced bowls to the steeper, gorge like Kulu valley. On the way we passed paddy fields of rice and many fascinating houses.
Then everything changed. After about 7 hours we caught a glimpse of a magnificent dam with a huge gushing outflow. Without thinking we prepared to take photos. As we reached the dam, the bus suddenly stopped. Armed police boarded the bus and demanded our films. After much pleading we were forced to give in. Simon lost 4 pictures only, but my film had 32 prints on it. I could not believe my eyes as I watched in despair as my film was stripped from its cartridge. The irony was that I had not had time to take a picture of the dam. Meanwhile, Jon, who had succeeded in taking a picture of the dam, managed to hide his camera from the police. (Jon was further back down the bus.)
We had read that we should not take pictures of military installations but somehow had not equated the dam with the military. It was a frightening experience, never before have I been confronted by a man with a gun, I hope it never happens again!
After this event I felt very down. Whilst I am trying to put this incident behind me, I can’t help but think of all the fascinating photos of the Simla people and slums that I have lost forever. Very disappointing indeed. Still, I must forget it, after all, we might have lost our cameras.
I have learnt my lesson the hard way.
One thing it has brought home to me is how important the camera is to me. I had had such a good time until that moment, and for a while it all seemed pointless. I realise now that much of the reason for my being here is to take back pictures to share with people at home. I must be careful not to put too much weight on these pictures, in case I lose the lot.
The rest of the Kulu valley, with its grey, flooded Beas River (grade 4) was beautiful and impressive, but I hardly appreciated it at all, still moping over my film!
Manali
When we arrived at 6:45 pm we were instantly mobbed by hoteliers. Fifteen or twenty of them, all speaking English, jostled us and repeatedly tried to persuade us to go to their hotel. It was really quite comic, as they followed us everywhere we went “Come to the Skylark Hotel, only Rs 50 …” “No, no, my hotel has hot water, “velly good!” and so on.
Eventually we settled for two double rooms for a total of Rs 30 (i.e. 50p each.) The rooms are reasonable, double bed, loo and tap (which they call a bath!)
We looked around a bit in the rain, had supper in the Mona Lisa (clearly a popular western restaurant) then returned for an early night.
But for the film, it was a good day. We ate little other than biscuits and chocolate during the day, avoiding the charred sweet corn that the little kids bring around. At one point I bought a coke for RS 2 and then had a massive argument with the vendor over tatty notes; another lesson for the day!
It may sound a small thing but the sense of irretrievability of my film is high. I must not let it get me down (though it does!) The experience will be good for me.
Thursday, 18th July
Up late, 10 am, a well-deserved lie in. Jon and I went off to find out about trekking in this area. Everyone seemed to say a different story, hard to know quite who to believe. We had some coffee and chapatis and then bumped into the other two. There are plenty of junkies around with Marijuana plants in evidence. They frequent a coffee bar called the “Blue Dragon”.
For lunch we braved some pasty like food which is for sale at all of the side stalls. They were delicious, mainly potato with a little spice. While Simon had his hair cut, the rest of us had a coffee. The barber was extraordinary, massaging Simon’s scalp and forehead in a rather over played ritual. He did a very good job for only Rs 4 and gave us good entertainment!
Chris did not feel too good, so he and Simon went back while Jon and I went in search of the mountaineering institute.
We crossed the river Beas and walked for 2 km. The Beas would be an excellent canoeing river, continuous grade 4 – 5, I would say. High up it is technical and by the time it reaches Manali the power and volume produce many huge stopper waves.
The mountaineering institute was a series of large modern buildings tucked away by the river. They were most helpful. Having no vested interest in Mules, they told us that mules are cheaper in Darcha where there are no agents to pay. They also said that all three trekking places in Manali were run by the same company, very interesting! We have had opposite advice from the tour places who naturally say it is cheaper to book in Manali. Here we are quoted Rs 50 per horse per day (minimum two horses.) The institute also warned that we will pay half the return trip.
In the end we decided to gamble. We will leave tomorrow for Darcha and then do our training walk from there. Hopefully we will find mules, who knows.
Before supper we walked up to the Manali sulphur springs, they are Rs 5 and very hot, purpose-built baths; very pleasant.
On returning we went to buy food for the next 4 days and looked for Kerosene for our cooking stove. No go. “Manali, no Kerosene.” This is a blow. Someone hit on the idea of asking restaurants. Eventually, after two hours hunting around, we collected up ten litres, four from a Chinese restaurant and the rest from stalls. In the process, we met many kind and generous people, including one who gave us a litre free. (The others were Rs 3 or 4, compared to Rs 2 in Simla.)
We finished with a delicious Chinese meal.
Event of the day was when I was refused another Rs 1 note when buying chocolate. I decided to give the note to a beggar, he complained! The note was too tatty!
We packed up our sacks and I treated a blister for Simon.
Trouble on the way to Darcha
Friday, 19th July
Up at 04:00 am to be at the bus station by 04:30 am (as told) to meet the 05:00 am bus. Guess what, no bus! Finally caught the 06:00 am bus which was absolutely jam packed with people. We managed, crouching and squatting where we could. The road was bumpy with a thick mist outside.
At around 11:00am we crossed the Rotang Pass (3900m.) We had been told that the weather changes as you come over the pass, but not for us! The mist and the rain continued endlessly. (We later discovered that this freak rain was the worst for 50 years, just our luck!)
At one point the bus stopped in the middle of nowhere and we all had to get out and have our passports checked in a tiny unlit hut.
We met another group of English trekkers, five in all, of various backgrounds. They are going to Padam. We chatted on the way to one of them, called Penny.
As we passed one corner the bus came to an abrupt halt. There had been a rockslide where a river had sprung out across the road. Rocks were piled high and there was no way of crossing. We started clearing the rocks by hand in the cold and rain. After 10 minutes we were making some progress. Suddenly someone started shouting. We could hear a distant rumble getting steadily louder. I have never run so fast in my life! When I was 20 yards away there was a huge crash, and I turned to see a wall of water cascading down where I had been standing seconds earlier. Boulders, two feet across, were hurled down over the road before plunging down the cliff into the river. All our work was fruitless! Now there was another gully across the road.
We tried again but the same thing happened. This process continued three or four times before we gave up and sat in the bus out of the cold. After a while (at 1:30 pm) another bus turned up on the other side. An agreement was made that we would switch buses. We watched as the other bus turned round with its wheels precariously close to the edge. Meanwhile, an army truck braved the crossing and just made it.
We rushed across with all our luggage and set off again in the new bus. It was even more crowded than the other one! The road was appalling, there were many other rock falls and places where the road had subsided. Inside it was terrifying, all we could see was the flooded river, 200 feet below. There would be no chance of escape if our metal coffin of a bus tilted and plunged over the edge. It was the slowest 25 Km I have ever travelled. With 10 Km to go, we managed to get onto the roof. At least on the roof we stood a chance of jumping clear if the worst happened.
We arrived at 02:45 pm, very wet and cold. We staggered with our 80lb sacks (including water and fuel) to a restaurant, the “Lamayuru Restaurant.” It took two hours for us to dry out and warm up.
After a short walk we had a meal and then bummed a space on the dining room floor of the tourist office for Rs 10 a head. This was to prove far better that the ready pitched tourist tents.
All in all, quite a day!
Keylong
Saturday, 20th July
We woke to find the weather had cleared to reveal brilliant sunshine. Wow! What a place! Keylong is truly beautiful, possibly the prettiest place I have ever visited. There are many Westerners here, yet the place is peaceful.
We decided, after various votes, for Simon and I to go to Darcha to suss out the mules and the guide. Our decisions are curious, each time we vote the split is 3:1; Simon, Chris and I decide on one thing and Jon votes the other! He seems almost deliberately to want to be different!
We were offered the roof of the Lamayuru to pitch our tents. So we collected rocks and set up on the flat concrete. Carrying the rocks a short way we could feel the effects of Keylong’s 11,000 feet height above sea level. We puffed away and felt rather lethargic.
Simon and I headed up for the bus at 10:30 am. We waited until 11:30 when one eventually came. In that time, we spoke to many people, some had come from Padam. Their information was useful but always contradictory: “Darcha road closed”, “No bus”, “Bus at 1:00 pm”, “Bus at 3:00 pm”, etc.
We climbed on the roof and waited.
As the bus started to move the “conductor” asked for our tickets.
“Darcha” I said. “No, no, not Darcha, only Jisspar” came the reply.
“Darcha? Darcha” I repeated. “No, no, only Jisspar.”
We had never heard of Jisspar so we had to make a quick decision, the bus was moving.
“Let’s get off” I said.
My sausage bag was strapped to the roof, so I slashed the straps and chucked the kit off. We asked the driver again “Darcha?” but he ignored us and drove on.
We later discovered that it was indeed the Darcha bus that we were on. Jisspar is in fact 8 Km short of Darcha, and the road is apparently clear now anyway.
In the end it was a good decision to have made. We decided to all leave for Darcha tomorrow and do our acclimatising there. After lunch, Jon stayed to do some washing and the rest of us set off to a nearby Gompa across the valley. We had a magnificent walk, slowly plodding uphill after crossing the river by a small wooden bridge. Beyond the Gompa we found an ice cool spring coming out of the hill. We drank and washed our feet before lazing in the sun.
All in all, it was a lovely walk, quite unlike anything I have seen before. By supper (our own brew) we were all tired and feeling the altitude with mild headaches and general weariness.
I feel shattered now but well contented. Bed 10:45 pm.
Trying to get to Darcha
Sunday, 21st July
Up at 08:00 am and packed up ready to leave for the 11:00 am bus to Darcha. Washed some stuff and then headed up to the bus stand. With all 80 lbs on our back it was very hard going, climbing up the slope in the heat. We staggered, barely 10 inches each step, until we eventually reached the top. At the bus stand, Guss’s group of English trekkers are there and so are the two Cambridge guys who we met last night. They are a good pair, travelling ultra-light, doing our walk without mules.
So, we waited. 11:00 am, 11:30 am, 12:00, etc. There was no bus. Slowly we gathered that there would only be a 5:00 pm bus! Thus, the whole day was spent in the shade, not wanting to carry all our stuff back down the hill, we just sat.
My stomach is much better, and I felt hungry for the first time, eating endless tomato omelettes from the restaurant.
At last, the bus arrived. It was packed. We all scrambled onto the roof along with some noisy Indians. The journey took two and a half hours and was quite spectacular. The road was narrow, with 400 feet drops straight down below.
At last, we arrived, just before dark, and set up camp. We had a delicious meal of potatoes, macaroni, bean, chickpeas and soya.
The atmosphere in the group has relaxed. Now that we are in the bare, barren mountains with no tourists, Jon has relaxed. Only when we are tired is there any sign of temper in the group.
Monday, 22nd July
Slept well, up at 08:00 am. Our campsite is good. It is at the base of the river (at the moment dry!) We watched first Simon and Andy (Cambridge guys) set off up the valley and then Guss, Penny, etc.
We had porridge (yuck!) and were greeted by groups of shy children, fascinated by our Sony Walkmans and all our kit. As we sat around, two Ladakhis from Lamayuru came and offered us horses for Rs 50 each. We said it was too expensive; we’ll play them out (I hope!)
Later we registered with the police and then scouted around. We met a very friendly Civil Engineer who spoke English and Hindi. He gave us some Chapati and Sardines, delicious.
He introduced his friend who offered us horses for Rs 40 a day. We told the Engineer about our Ladakhi horseman and persuaded him to bargain for us.
Eventually it was agreed. We take the Ladakhis and two horses at Rs 40 each per day for a flat rate of 10 days (i.e. Rs 800 in total.)
Hurray! The final “question mark” for our journey is resolved, we have horses! We celebrate with a bar of chocolate lunch.
Later, while Simon and Jon sent postcards, Chris and I went for a walk up the righthand side of the valley (looking up stream.) We had a lovely walk, passing some villages and then climbing up onto a ridge. We took two hours to climb and one hour and ten minutes to descend. I took lots of photos and we were treated to some lovely views. It was a good training walk; we puffed a bit but overall, it was not too bad.
We met Simon and Jon at 5:10 pm. They had been given Chang (local alcoholic beverage made from Barely) by the postmaster and were fairly pissed! We ate some more Chapati and then had supper. Once again, we had hassle with wind and the stove, maybe we will perfect it soon!
Day 1 of our trek
Tuesday, 23rd July (Day 1 of our trek)
The big day! We start. Up at 05:30 am to pack up. After some persuasion, our horseman Tashi Namgyal, provided some sacks.
We estimate that we are each carrying 40 lbs, it is very hard going! We are following the river up the valley.
It is not so much the weight but its combination with the intense heat that makes it hard. The path was reasonable, though stoney. It winds its way down to the river and then back up, one or two hundred feet above the river. With our horseman is another Ladakhi with a horse, he is accompanying some other westerners.
The scenery is typical Ladakh. Dry, mountainous, baron. Every now and then, as a small stream drops into the main river, there is a patch of greenery and some purple flowers.
We stopped every hour for a break and a drink.
Our second stop was in a small village.
After that we stopped by an impressive gorge.
As we proceed, the going gets tougher, the sun is more intense, and the weight of our rucksacks digs further into our shoulders.
At 12:30, totally exhausted, we stopped to have lunch by a small river which meets the main one. But Tashi is not happy. After some misunderstanding, he got us to cross before the river rose too high. It was only small, just above the ankles, but the force of the water makes the crossing hard.
We dropped to the ground and ate: Chocolate, fudge, dried fruit, nuts and three A-B biscuits with a salami sausage. All very welcome! The horses needed to graze so we wait until 3:00 pm, sheltering under our umbrellas from the sun, before starting again.
We walked three more miles after lunch (ten miles in total.) We were treated to some cloud and a breeze which eases the journey. We are camping just short of the right fork in the river, where we will turn northeast and head for the Shingo La. There is some occasional drizzle as we put the tent up and get started on the meal. We ate rice and chicken, followed by lemon mouse and coffee, delicious!
Totally exhausted we take an early bed at 08:30 pm.
Trek Day 2
Wednesday, 24th July (Day 2)
Thank goodness that’s over, now I can relax and write my diary! We were up at 06:00 am and away by 08:00 am. The initial climb was tough as we followed the Barai Nala river. I put my Walkman on which helped a lot. The headphone socket is playing up a bit, but when it works it is excellent for distracting the mind from those aching shoulders!
At 09:30 we met a river which comes down from the Shingo La and forks into the Barai from the right. As we arrived, some Germans were crossing the other way. They had a rope across which we used. I changed into my training shoes and waded across first. The water was waist high and hard going. However, by facing upriver, leaning forward and using the rope only to steady oneself, it was fairly easy to cross. On the far bank was a tent selling Chai (tea.) This was most welcome!
We staggered on up the valley. Luckily it was cloudy which made it cooler. As I walked, passing the patches of green grass and purple flowers, my mind drifted. For the first time on the walk, I began to think. I mused about everything, my life so far, my future, what I was aiming for and why. I thought too about why I am here. There is the endurance test element, but there is more to it than that. For the last 21 years I have been caught in the western rat race, chasing goal after goal, rarely stopping to wonder why. Now at last I am free from the western world for a while. I can stop and consider my purpose and direction. On reflection, things I have pursued have been worthwhile and I look forward to starting my new job at ICI. The new job will be worthwhile, stimulating and constructive. The money will allow me to enjoy myself and enjoy the pleasures of travelling and meeting others. Walking solely in this lonesome dessert I begin to see the purpose of life, it is people. Being with and caring for others, helping those in need. That is the purpose of life. When I look back at my 21 years so far, I appreciate how supportive and loving my parents have been, my aim must be to do the same for others.
So, I drifted on in a dream. As I walked my thoughts became less coherent. Rather like drifting contentedly to sleep after a successful day.
Suddenly I snapped out of my dream. We have reached Ramjak, little more than a stone shelter and a patch of grass. 12:15 am. We stopped for a two-hour lunch again. It was quite cold, and I needed my Javelin fleece, cagoule and gloves.
After lunch, we set off again. It seems harder now. I could not forget the weight of my pack, even with Mozart flowing from the Walkman. Minute after minute we staggered on, the horses always out of sight.
At last, we got into a grass hollow and saw the horses. I was knackered; however, I recovered quicker today. We arrived at 4:40 pm and had had supper by 7:30 pm. We are getting quicker! Surprisingly, now, I don’t feel too bad. Tomorrow is the big day, the Shingo La Pass. I only hope it is not cloudy or else there will be no view!
Over the Shingo La pass
Thursday, 25th July (Day 3)
There was a bad thunderstorm last night and much rain. It seems that this freak weather is with us for a while. All of the guidebooks told us that “it never rains in Ladakh” due to it being under a rain shadow from the rest of the Himalayas. This has become something of a catch phrase amongst us as it certainly has rained in Ladakh, and this has caused us challenges along the way such as the landslide and the bus change earlier in our journey.
Sadly, it was cloudy all day. We started at 08:15 am and staggered up towards the Shingo La. I lightened my sack today, putting my sleeping bag onto the horse. Every ridge looked like we had arrived at the pass, yet there was always one more beyond it! I was panting heavily but had no headaches or other altitude problems. For the last half hour, as we crossed snow and glaciers, we were in misty drizzle.
Eventually we came to some stones and prayer flags, it’s the top! It was 11:30 am. On reflection it had not been too bad. Tashi gave us all a small bunch of flowers, a nice touch.
We scrambled rapidly down the far side. The horses found the snow hard (and so did we!)
The scenery had changed (though not the weather!) The mountains were more impressive and there was a distinct pinkness to the hills. We dropped down to the Kargyak Chu river and crossed a snow bridge.
We pounded on until 1:15 pm where we found a clearing for lunch.
Chris has a bad headache but otherwise all is well. It was only an hour further to Lakong, 4450m above see level, where we found a large stone hut for the night. We are next to a tributary coming in from the southeast. It is windy and damp. Where is the sun?! We stopped a bit earlier today, 3:30pm.
To Kargyak
Friday, 26th July (Day 4)
It was hard getting up in our stone hut. It was still damp and cold. We packed up and went straight across a knee-high river without problem. The going was generally easy and downhill, although over many boulders. Gradually the weather brightened, although there was always drizzle chasing us.
We saw some magnificent scenery. Really colourful valleys, rusty mountains, grey, green, lovely. We passed a most impressive arête which remained behind us, towering above, all the way to Kargyak. The walk was long but fast, striding downhill. We stopped often for photos.
The whole walk was 12 miles and seemed long at the end, although we arrived at 1:40 pm (4 hours 40 minutes) which was very quick. The village is surrounded by whitewashed stone monuments. Apparently, they walk around these, praying as they go.
We were fairly exhausted when we arrived. We had tea in the “hotel” and recovered. Still patches of rain. Took some pictures of the fascinating houses.
Spending the night in a mud house with the Cambridge lads.
Day 5
Saturday, 27th July (Day 5)
Boy am I exhausted! We walked 16 miles today; crippling. We left at 09:00 am, saying goodbye to the Cambridge guys. They are staying a day in Kargyak to let Andrew’s stomach settle.
To start it was downhill walking along the river on the right bank. I chatted to Chris for a while. We passed many of the white monuments and also lots of stone graves. These are long, rectangular piles of stones. On top, the stones are engraved with prayers.
After 3 hours we crossed to the left bank at the Shangse bridge. The scenery is magnificent, with green oasis down in the villages and spectacular, rusty orange sandstone mountains all around.
We stopped late for lunch, after Kuru, just before Thetha. Set off again at 3:00 pm having been thoroughly burnt lying on the grass in the hot sun.
It was a tough uphill climb to Thetha and then Yal. We were well above the river, winding along a steep gorge.
At last, we descended to the Purne bridge and up the other side to Purne. We were totally shattered! We came across an English guy and two Australians here.
We arrived at 5:30 pm and wondered whether Tashi would find us. Sure enough, at 6:45 pm he turned up. He looked very pleased with us, shaking our hands as we sat in the “hotel” drinking Chang and chai. The other westerners and the second horseman have stayed behind in Thetha, so that is quite impressive, what wimps they are!!
We put the tents up just as, true to form, the rain and wind started. “It never rains in Ladakh!!”
Oh, and just to mention, the people. We have found all of the locals from Kargyak to here to be both very inquisitive and pushy. All the children beg for sweets, some quite aggressively.
Phuktal Gompa
Sunday, 28th July (Day 6)
We awoke to find a magnificent blue sky above us. Today is a semi rest day, a much needed one!
After slowly sorting things out and doing some washing in the stream, Simon, Jon and I set off for the Phuktal Gompa. Chris decided to stay behind. This was handy as the locals were demanding a Rs 5 per head “protection fee” for our kit; what a rip off!
The walk was easy, not carrying any sacks. The valley was quite spectacular, precipitous red mountains against the blue sky. Many photos taken! We crossed the river by a swing bridge which looked new (1983.) The walk was 2 hours. We climbed up a hill, turned a corner and saw the Gompa. Amazing! High up under a cliff, facing South, commanding the valley. It was perched partly in a cave and partly on the cliff edge.
Inside the, the general feel is more of a tourist site than a holy place. Nevertheless (and despite the smell of urine) it was well worth the visit.
We came back quickly, arriving at the campsite by 1:30 pm. Simon remembered that it was his birthday, so I bought two bottles of Chang and some biscuits to celebrate.
The Chang finished us off and we lazed the afternoon away, half reading, half sleeping.
The western junkies have caught us up and have now gone up to the Phuktal Gompa. Cambridge (guys) arrived too at 3:30 pm, extremely tired after their walk from Kargyak.
As the afternoon wind dropped, I cooked supper in the evening sun. Chris was to have cooked, but he gave up after mixing the potato powder with cold water!!
Illness Strikes
Monday, 29th (Day 7)
Stayed up late (9:00 pm!!) drinking Chang. Sleep very badly, desperately trying not to be sick. I woke early, feeling awful. I had assumed that this was just a hangover, but this was not to be!
I managed half of my breakfast before rushing out of the tent. After all my efforts of the night, up came the breakfast, supper, Chang and all! I felt really rough. Clearly, I had eaten something bad.
We set off at a slow pace and managed to get an our down the road. There was a hotel, I had to stop for tea. I slumped to the ground and sipped at the tea. It tasted good, but not for long. Up it came. By now I was feeling pretty bad, so we stopped for an hour while I slept.
At 11:00 am I felt a little better though full of wind. My pack was put on the horse, and I walked on carrying nothing. I was now very weak, slower than the others, even without my pack. My stomach felt like a fermenting beer barrel. Although it was empty I was still bringing up a fizzy liquid.
I became weaker and weaker. At last, by 12:30 pm I could go no further. I collapsed outside a small house and prepared to sleep. Sipping at some water I suddenly vomited, again and again, emptying my guts. I had thought that there was nothing left but my stomach thought otherwise. What a horrific experience. I slept until 3:30 pm.
On waking I felt temporarily better but soon realised that my problems had spread lower down. I rushed down through a wheat field to relieve myself, but not quite in time! That was the last straw. We still had at least an hour more walking to reach our horses. I was totally wasted. I sat down and burst into tears. Never before have I felt so humiliated, so feeble, so pathetic. It is an experience I shall never forget.
Desperately fighting my weakness, I stood up and staggered on. What an ordeal! It took an hour and a half through a strong wind and dust storm before we at last hit camp. Never have I been so glad to see a small group of tents by the riverside. I lay down in the tent and fell instantly asleep.
Waking later, I felt a little better and managed some water and Kendal mint cake.
Heading for Mune
Tuesday, 30th July (Day 8)
I slept well and got up feeling better, though still a little weak. Clearly, whatever had been inside me was no longer there. The horse took my pack again and I had a fairly easy day.
We stopped for lunch at Reru, a beautiful place. Like so many of the villages it appeared out of the otherwise desolate mountains as a green oasis of wheat and, at Reru, willow trees.
We had lunch near a pond where we all had a bath. We then had tea in another “hotel” which was very pleasant.
On to Mune was only an hour. The Gompa was perched up on a high rock. We camped beside it, surrounded by lovely scenery.
At this point my diary contains a number of translations:
White monument – Chorten
White monument with a hole – Cancani
Burial Mount – Yucksi
A head lama is buried at Mune, he was called “Marni Perni.” He is buried in a Yucksi.
Mune Gompa
Wednesday, 31st July (Day 9)
Chatted to the head lama last night. He was very friendly and quite interesting. He told us the names of the monuments and the burial mounds. He also wrote his name and address in Butti; see below.
Last night Simon was ill. He had a similar thing to me, diarrhoea and vomiting. So we decided to spend the day at Mune. It was a pleasant and relaxing day. Apart from the rather pushy, inquisitive people, Mune is a lovely place.
I lay in the sun reading for a couple of hours and then went for a camera walk. I only took a few photos but had a pleasant walk and squatted on top of the Gompa to admire the view.
At 1:00 pm it became windy and started to rain. Cambridge turned up and sheltered in our tents for a while before heading on to the Burden Gompa.
We spent the rest of the afternoon reading in the wind-swept tents. I cooked supper and then we had an early bed.
Near miss on the way to Burden Gompa
Thursday, 1st August (Day 10)
I got everyone up at 05:00 am (very popular) so that we could get a good start before sunrise. We left at 06:30 am and set off down a windy path.
After an hour the path fizzled out and there seemed to be a choice between a high and a low road. Simon, with no pack, took the high one. The others went below. At first, I followed Simon but finding it hard with my sack I decided to descend. The climbing became harder and harder until I was stuck. I found myself clinging to loose rock well above the river, over a scree slope. Unable to move I foolishly took off my sack and lowered it to a ledge below. However, it did not stay on the ledge and nor did it stop on the scree. To my despair I watched it gather speed and bounce down towards the raging river below. I scrambled down after it, fearing almost certainly that I had lost the lot into the river.
To my amazement and incredibly good fortune the rucksack stopped on the lower path, 6 feet from the river. Oh boy was that lucky, someone smiled on me today!
Jon, who saw my sack fall, thought I was still wearing it and that I would be severely injured after a serious fall. I guess I scared him almost as much as I scared myself.
After this incident the going was easier, and the path was more defined. I wandered along thinking about the rucksack incident. Not only was my luck astounding but also was it clear how easily everything could be lost. I did in fact lose the pedometer and a bar of Kendal mint cake, but I got off very lightly!
We came to Burden gompa at 10:30 am, finding the early morning cool a real blessing. The Burden gompa is perched on a solitary rock. Jon and I went inside and were pleased to find it was less touristy and more religious than earlier ones. For Rs 5 a piece we were shown into two locked rooms. Inside were some very brightly coloured walls and pillars, covered with some kind of watercolour paint. It was rather gaudy but for a place with so little colour it was quite striking. The rooms contained various Buddhist figures which I photographed. I don’t have a flash so I am not sure whether these will come out. Other interesting bits were some very well printed cloth draping the ceiling and also a row of small dishes of water.
We arrived in Padam at 1:00 pm without further incident except that I was having some trouble with my stomach. I have had a lot of wind recently and the last 4 miles I was plagued by severe stomach cramp.
Padam is a green open plateau, well spread out with buildings springing up fast all around. It strikes me as being relaxed and pleasant. It is rapidly developing while not being the thriving place that I had been led to expect.
In the evening, after buying chocolate, sweets and sugar, we had a slap-up meal with Cambridge and the Gloucester guy, Berty. It was a most enjoyable evening, we treated Tashi to a meal too.
Padum and Seni
Friday, 2nd August (Day 11)
Had a good night’s sleep in an excellent “dormitory” for 4 (Rs 25.) Gradually got up and sorted ourselves out. We had decided to spend the morning in Padam and try and change some money at the bank.
We have now teamed up with Cambridge. They decided to hire a horse for the rest of the trek. Tashi (ever the businessman!) offered his services. So, we pay Rs 800 and Cambridge pays Rs 400, a good deal for Tashi! Still, I am glad, it is good to have some extra company. Only Jon seems a little unhappy (not for the first time this trip!)
We had no joy at the bank or anywhere else. We will have to go easy on the rupees.
At mid-day we set off leisurely to Seni, only 2 hours walk.
The campsite here is a large open dried out marsh. It is good, except that we are plagued by nosy kids.
To Karsha
Saturday, 3rd August (Day 12)
Rather a frustrating walk today. Had to walk from Seni up towards Kargil, across a bridge and then walk back on the opposite side of the Zanskar river.
By 10:00am we were opposite our starting point! The walk was hot and dull along a stoney road. Lazed away the afternoon. I cooked and washed up. There are some interesting Tsampa mills here. Tsampa is roasted barley, a local food. We are camping at the Karsha Gompa. Only 9 more walking days!
To make this travel blog easier to store and to read, it has been split in two, please click the button below to continue to part 2.
Commentaires