Lamayuru or Bust! Part 2
- jonathanmillerhome
- Jan 27
- 15 min read
Updated: Feb 15
Pishu
Sunday, 4th August (Day 13)
The usual early rise and away. Jon stayed behind and waited for Tashi as there was no sign of him.
We were expecting a tough walk, 14 miles, but we found it pleasant and easy. For the first hour or so we strode out arguing about politics. The hours flew by, and we were quickly at Rinam. There we waited for Jon.
It is good to get away from that endless Padam triangle that has haunted us for the last few days. The scenery how is fascinating. The mountains are all formed from twisted layers of sedimentary strata. We are walking close alongside the Zanskar. The latter is fast and wide but not steep.
On the way we found a good irrigation stream where we were able to bathe. We leapt in and had a refreshing wash.
We arrived at Pishu at 1:00 pm (5½ hours, 1 hour stop, 14 miles.) It had been a surprisingly easy day considering the distance. Pishu sits under a deeply reddened cliff and has a deserted nature. The village is lined along the path, rather than the normal sprawl. There are small stables, horses, wheat and large bumblebees buzzing around.
We recovered in a hotel for 2 hours and then found Tashi down by the river. The campsite is good, flat, large and grassy.
True to form, just after the tents went up, the rain came down!
Along the Zanskar to Hanomil
Monday, 5th August (Day 14)
Rather a slow start. It was misty and there was occasional drizzle. We left at 08:00 am for another easy 11 mile walk which was mostly downhill.
Chris and I backed the wrong path just before Pidnu and had to wade briefly in the edge of the Zanskar as our path died away.
I wandered along easily following the speeding Zanskar and arrived at Hanomil at 12:30 pm. There is little to the village other than a tea tent and a camping ground. The weather is variable.
Chris, Simon, Andrew and I scrambled far up a river and had an ice cold, but very refreshing, wash.
As we put the tents up a friendly boy helped and collected water for us. We gave him some chocolate in return, a pleasant change from the scrounging kids that we have typically met so far.
I cook supper despite some trouble with the Primus. Tomorrow the walk may get harder as we start the passes.
Tashi, by the way, has bought a new horse, of which he is very proud. He now has 3, “Karpo”, “Hompo” and “Marpo.” The last one being the new one, which cost Rs 2500.
Rebuilding the path on the way to Sneatse
Tuesday, 6th August (Day 15)
What a day! It’s funny how one’s mood changes. Yesterday, day 21 with 7 to go, seemed like a long and tiresome. Today on the other hand, after a tough and rewarding day, feels good.
We set off at 09:00am, having waited for Tashi as we expected problems with the path. Within an hour our expectations were fulfilled! 50 feet above the brown Zanskar river the path had fallen away completely. The gap was only 6 feet, but it was beyond what the horses could do. So, we spent an interesting two hours rebuilding the path. First a ledge was scraped out of the cliff.
Then, gradually the stones we collected were piled into a new path.
There was an awkward 2-foot gap which was eventually bridged with some branches. The horses tentatively crossed unloaded.
It has been overcast and damp all day. After our repair I strode out a bit to make up some distance. Soon we were climbing up the Pur La. It is only a small spur on the map, but in reality, it is a stiff and long climb. The views however were quite magnificent.
We waved goodbye to the Zanskar river and had lunch on top of the pass in the rain! Scrambling down to the Oma Chu was steep but fast.
Halfway up the side we saw some white buildings and set off to reach Sneatse. But no! The buildings turned out to be white stones. We had to climb right up over the next pass to reach Sneatse. We arrived at 4:30 pm in the pouring rain! It was a tough but spectacular climb.
We hurriedly put up the tents and ate. Sneatse, like Lakong and Ramjak, is no more than a stone shelter.
After supper we revived ourselves with 3 cups of coffee and went to bed (still raining hard.) I hope what I am writing is legible as I am writing in the dark!
Over Hanumu La and into Lingshot
Wednesday, 7th August (Day 16)
We left Sneatse and set off up the valley expecting to climb over the Hanumu La within the hour. Had we looked more closely at the map we would have realised that the pass was 15,700 feet with a long walk up to it.
The valley seemed endless. Steep V-shaped valley with orange sides that climbed steadily on and on.
At last, after 3 hours (11:00 am) some prayer flags appeared in the distance. The view over the top was quite staggering. A huge bowl stretched out before us with Lingshot on the far side. Amazing! I must say, these passes are hard, but the rewards are good.
We rapidly dropped the height, charging down, bashing our knees and cutting our toes. Next came the Chupkun La pass. A lower, steep pass which was not too difficult to tackle.
From here there was some doubt as to the way to go. Lingshot is well spread out down in the valley with the Gompa on the far side of the bowl.
We made the wrong choice! We dropped into the valley. We came to a house (not a hotel) and asked for Chapati and sugar tea. They were very amused, not fully understanding us. They were so much more friendly than the money grabbing hoteliers that we had met. We had Chapati and a milky, sugary concoction along with goodness knows what else.
Next, we wandered aimlessly not knowing we were going down into the valley. We all got lost and it was not until 5:30 pm, after climbing up to the Gompa, that we found the hotel tent. The proper path had skirted round the side and not dropped into the valley. Still, we had a lovely experience meeting some locals as a result of our diversion.
We had a look in the Gompa, but it was too dark to see much. Lingshot is a beautiful place.
Lingshot Gompa
Thursday, 8th August (Day 17)
Up early to have a look around the Gompa. We took it easy and waited for the sun to get over the ridge.
We had a good look round the holy room and took some interesting photos of their paintings. We also watched some monks praying (or mumbling, as it sounded to us!)
The day was tough but magnificent. Clear blue sky and sun all day. We climbed over a small ridge from Lingshot and then dropped right to the valley bottom. It took 59 minutes to get up over the steep Kuba La. Although high up, we had seen the Sringi La ridge beyond and so knew it was not far to go.
Had a brief lunch on the way and strode into the campsite by 2:35 pm. There is a parachute tent at the foot of the Singi La with a Lama inside. Reluctantly he sells tea and fantastic “Special Chapati” which has jam and butter inside. We must be at 16,000 feet here, quite a campsite! It will be cold tonight.
Over Singi La and into Photoksar
Friday, 9th August (Day 18)
Indeed, it was cold! I slept fully clothed though, so I was alright. Left at 07:15 am and was over the Singi La in 1¼ hours (not difficult.)
Lovely blue sky and beautiful scenery. Jon and I ambled along together, taking it easy. The valley after the pass is inhabited by many marmots. We saw both burrows and the animal itself. It looks like an otter, with a furry tail. They live along the river. Jon and I sat for 20 minutes by a burrow and were rewarded with some lovely close-up shots.
The rest of the walk was easy and uneventful. Mostly downhill with a small pass at the end. Photoksar is another lovely place. Coming down into the Photang Valley I suddenly saw a huge bird of prey soaring gracefully. It must have been an eagle or a condor. I photographed it, though it was quite distant by the time I got my camera out.
After some trouble we found the others and had lunch, Chapati, tea, etc.
Tashi was late arriving, so we sat and read in the sun. Many locals came and begged for “Karka, bonbon” etc. This meant I was able to take some portrait shots.
Tashi has found a dead goat and given us some. I’ll cook it to add to our usual supper.
Over Sir Sir La
Saturday, 10th August (Day19)
Set off at 07:45 am, heading for the Sir Sir La. The latter is a large ridge, spanning the valley as a defiant rock wall. It took two hours to reach the top, the last part being especially steep (16,000 feet.)
From here on it was a gentle but long walk down the valley to Hanupatta. I saw another eagle, cruising overhead, but was too slow to photograph it.
Having had tea and Chapati we had to stagger back up the valley for 1 hour to get back to the grazing site. What an effort! It is only 1½ days to Lamayuru, I can’t wait!
Hanupatta and Wanla
Sunday, 11th August (Day 20)
Off at 07:45 am and reach Hanupatta again at 08:30.
The walk was long and downhill. Soon we were in a magnificent gorge with spectacular steep sides.
Out of the garage we stopped in the first village. There are signs of civilisation now and trees! At last, trees! I had no idea how much I had missed them.
We arrived at Wanla after what seemed a very long time. There is a hotel tent. Lamayuru, the final destination of our trek, is at last within reach.
Prinkiti La and Lamayuru
Monday, 12th August (Day 21)
The last day of our trek! Away by 07:10 am. Set off at a fast pace. I suddenly realised how much I wanted to finish the walk. There was a pass, the Prinkiti La, at the end of a long valley. After two hours I reached the top. Cambridge and Simon were already there so I ran the remaining 50 ft up the last pass as a defiant gesture! (Almost collapsing with a heart attack when I got to the top!!)
We cruised down until we saw Lamayuru on a hill, fantastic! By 09:50 am we were drinking Campa Cola at the Gompa Hotel. It’s all over!
Having sat on the ground and sorted out our kit, we decided to try and hitch out. It was a long crawl up to the road (at least 10 minutes!) We sat on the curb, flagging down lorries until 7 pm and then gave up.
Had a good supper in the roadside restaurant and then slept under the stars on the veranda.
Trucking to Leh
Tuesday, 13th August
Slept well and pigged ourselves on coffee and jam with Chapatis for breakfast.
At 08:30 am we spotted a lorry and run up to get it. Amazingly it stopped and we scrambled on. So easy!
But no! The 100-mile journey was to take 12 hours (7 hours of stops.) The driver hassled us over money all the way. He told us that there was a big police problem and therefore he needed Rs 50 each. In the end we paid Rs 10 each (half the bus fare.)
Walked the last 2 km into town and found the Palace View guest house. Very good room, shower and TV!
Had a rather poor supper in a restaurant and went to bed at 12:00, totally exhausted.
Wednesday, 14th August
Lie in, then up and had a wash. So good to be clean (the colour of the water was disgusting!) Slight stomach trouble but no serious problem.
It is so good to be back in civilisation. Had a great breakfast of bread and jam with coffee.
Wandered around town, buying chocolate, fruit and other luxuries. Spent an hour changing money (£100), which for India is not bad.
Had an excellent lunch of sweet and sour vegetables with chips along with lemon squash, in the Dreamland Hotel. We are going back for supper.
Bought some food for the journey and a couple of presents, a knife for Duncan, a necklace for Wendy and a Ladakhi hat for me! The hat causes much amusement! I also bought a hard back book on Ladakh, very colourful.
Wrote some postcards and relaxed. It is great to be here. Tomorrow the Dalhi Lama is coming, incredible luck! The town is busy preparing itself with much colour.
Dalai Lama's in town
Thursday, 15th August
Went down to the main square at 08:00 am to wait for the Dalai Lama. Nobody knew exactly when he was coming. Gradually, women, school children and tourists came out and lined the pavements. The whole thing was very colourful. There were many monks with their red robes, large hats and strange horns and drums.
The procession consisted of motorbikes, jeeps and cars, followed by people chanting. We were disappointed to find his holiness was not on show but sped by in a white car. Nonetheless, it was a spectacular event and one which we were glad to be part of.
In the afternoon I took it easy and did a little shopping. Rather extravagantly bought a “Batik” Budha, a sheet with a dyed image of Budha on it. It was very impressive but cost Rs 250 (£15.) Still, it is something you couldn’t get in England. Simon bought two of them!
Ate in the Snow Lion (Oma) restaurant. Very good.
Troubles on the way to Kargil
Friday, 16th August
Up at 4:45 am, to be down at the bus station by 05:30 am. We had bought tickets yesterday. Rs 9 each on a B-class bus for the 432 km trip.
The bus was very “B” class! In other words, uncomfortable.
At 09:30 am, after seemingly making good progress, the bus ground to a halt with steam pouring out of the engine. The alternator had seized, wearing out the fan belt. We had to wait 5 hours for a new part to be fetched from Leh!
It was a long night drive with various police stops and waits. The driver was drinking rum which was a bit disconcerting! Anyway, we finally rolled in at 1:30 am and had 3½ hours sleep on the bus roof in Kargil.
To Srinagar
Saturday, 17th August
Away by 05:45 am. A long day in the uncomfortable bus with many delays. Gradually each town became more civilised.
Stopped at Sonamarg for lunch and then headed for the Zoji La. By this stage I had a very bad stomach with both pain and diarrhoea, not at all pleasant!
Crossing the pass the scenery changed dramatically, rapidly becoming green and alpine with tall conifers.
By the time we reached Srinagar, I was in real trouble with my stomach.
We found a small hotel, the Sheesa Mahal restaurant, for Rs 20 for the room and a cold shower, it was adequate.
Dal Lake and more
Sunday, 18th August
Stomach trouble all day! Felt very weak with spasmodic pain.
Stomach trouble all day! Felt very weak with spasmodic pain.
Spent the morning houseboat hunting in a small Shikara which we hired for Rs6 an hour, including a small boy to paddle it.
Chris and I looked while Simon stayed with the kit in the Paradise Hotel. We saw everything from Deluxe (Rs 400) with T.V., to slum class (Rs 20.)
In the end we found a good A class / Deluxe Houseboat called the Hona Lulu for Rs120 and then Rs 130 when Jon arrives. We could not resist the bath with proper hot water. There was plush dining room, all very comfortable. For Rs 33 each (£2.00) bed and breakfast it is good value.
Settled in and then lazed around hoping my stomach will settle down. I have eaten nothing all day.
Monday, 19th August
Feeling better. Simon (after a heavy session last night) stayed in bed exhausted. Chris and I walked into town.
We bought a Deluxe bus ticket (Rs 60) to Jammu from the tourist office and then found our way into the centre. The centre was hot and busy. Similar to Delhi and not pleasant. Eventually we found the train booking place and bought 2nd class train tickets from Jammu to Delhi (Rs 64.)
Took an auto rickshaw back and slumped onto the houseboat.
Went to the Paradise for lunch and then chilled through the afternoon.
It’s good to be in this place, food, civilisation (almost!) and peace and quiet. Chris and I had an hours Shikara ride.
In the evening, I had supper in the Laka. A pleasant Tibetan restaurant with good food and service. I sat and chatted to the proprietor until 11:00 pm.
Nagin Lake
Tuesday, 20th August
Went ashore and had beans on toast in the Phulak restaurant. Chris felt ill, so he returned. Simon and I hired bikes (Rs 6 each) and set off in search of Nagin Lake.
It was half an hour’s ride and most pleasant. The bikes were heavy and wonky, but it is good to move much faster than walking.
Nagin is peaceful and beautiful. The houseboats are well spread out, and the lake is broad and calm.
We had a little trouble finding the Young Aeroplane, where the Cambridge guys were staying. The lying Shikara men that we came across claimed ignorance and asked for Rs 20 to take us there. It was in fact just 1000 yards opposite them!
We came across a friendly old man with a lovely old boat, the “New York.” He let us on his Shikara for free.
We found Cambridge and had a lovely afternoon swimming.
In the evening, we met Jon in the Lalisa. He had climbed his mountain.
Wednesday, 21st August
Hired bikes and set off in search of Jhelum bridges. Got lost and found none! Found our way to the fort and climbed up. I was overcome by a bad stomach and had to return.
Spent the rest of the day in bed, ugh!
Around the houseboat
Thursday, 22nd August
Idle morning, reading. Went ashore for beans on toast and chips.
Sauntered back and met Andrew. Had another look in the woodwork shop.
Meet a guy called Sam Eastward from Bristol who is out here with Patrick Lewis (son of the chairman of John Lewis, where my father works.) Quite extraordinary meeting them out of the blue. Unfortunately, Patrick is ill at the moment.
The Austrians came round for tea. Finished my book.
Lake tour
Friday, 23rd August
Chris, Jon and I set off at 09:00 am in a Shikara for a lake tour. We were taken by the Hono Lulu’s owner, Abdul. We were rowed by his five nephews and sons.
We had a great day. We went across to the causeway, to Nishat Moghul gardens, to a Mosque, the through to Nagin Lake. There we met Andrew and swam. Mary (his houseboat lady) cooked us some chips for lunch, which was great.
The whole tour took 7 hours. We paid Rs 90 for the three of us, which was good value.
Later, Simon and I went present shopping. I bought Gran a “tea set” which included a tablecloth, napkins and tea cosey. For the rest, I found various wood carvings, although I have some more to buy yet.
In the evening, we had a bumper Lalsa meal with the Austrians. Just as we were leaving, I met Jackie, quite incredible. I knew she was in India somewhere but did not know where. She and I will start work at ICI once we are back in the UK. I stayed and chatted with them until mid-night, then came back.
Taj Mahal
My diary stops at this point; however, my pictures continue. We travelled by train back to Delhi and then on South to see the Taj Mahal.
This is the end of the photos and of the story of our trek, I hope you enjoyed it!
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